9 Reasons you should go to Tangalle Sri Lanka

Tangalle is possibly my favourite place in the whole of Sri Lanka. Sure, the waves are shore breakers and not surfable. Yes, it’s not a stop on one of the train lines. It may even be a bit too quiet for some, but this is my idea of paradise. So here are the 9 reasons you should go to Tangalle and make it your paradise too.

1. Go off the beaten path

How do you know that you are at a beach off the beaten path in Sri Lanka? Only one of the cash machines in town accepts your foreign South African card. Possibly a little inconvenient, but at least I knew I wouldn’t have to fight hoards of other tourists to see the sunset.

2. Experience the contrasts

Something that stood out for me in Tangalle is the contrast between the town side of the beach and the idyllic resorts nestled in the tropical foliage about 3km east of town. In my humble opinion, it is the perfect combination of getting a taste of the busy local beach culture and the laidback ‘I am in paradise drinking from a coconut’ feeling.

Conveniently these two experiences are only a 5 minute tuktuk drive apart or a hot 30 minute walk on the sand…your choice. Oh and I used the term resort quite loosely, because there are some but most aren’t your idea of super luxurious. I’m talking the kind of resort with beautiful bungalows, situated close to the sea, with swept beach sand pathways and palm tree leaf umbrellas with hammocks to rest in.

3. Stay with a local

Closer to the town, there are guesthouses amid the local homes that will provide you with more of a local cultural experience. Fishing boats form part of the scenery and the ground is scattered with the contents of the latest catch. It doesn’t smell but it is reality and not a picture perfect sight. The water in this bay is calm enough to swim far out or bob about pretending to be a cork.

At the guesthouse we learned how to make ginger tea the Sri Lankan way and ate homemade rice and curry accompanied by the catch of the day. 3 days and we felt like part of the family. Conversations consisted of broken English, wild gesticulation and belly laughter when we misunderstood each other. Our home away from home was a guesthouse called Sasagara.

4. Experience tranquility

Heading east and on the outskirts of Tangalle, we stayed at Ganesh Gardens. It is nestled between the lagoon and the beach. Here you can spend your days dividing your time between dips in the crystal blue waters, walks along sandy beaches that gently massage your feet and reading a book under the shade of palms. Your entertainment consists of endless white beaches hugged by palms leaning in to hear what news the waves bring from across the Indian Ocean.

5. Explore the lagoon

For the more active, there are canoes to go explore the lagoon. Gliding through the quiet waters early in the morning, you are guaranteed to see a rich array of bird life and water monitors out for a swim. The first sight of the scales slithering across the smooth water had me in a panic. Backing up was a great core and cardio workout. As my eyes adjusted, I realized it wasn’t a crocodile and then my curious nature took over albeit at a safe distance.

6. Get a massage

Halfway between Ganesh Gardens and town you will find Asha Beach Ayurvedic massage. If your way to relax is going for a massage and getting herb or spice infused oil poured over your body, this is the place. It was recommended by a local and run by an Ayurvedic doctor, which convinced me to give it a go. Someday I will write about best massages in the world, for now I will say, ayurvedic is not for me. Massages are given in a basic structure with sea sand floors, which fits right in with a beach theme.

7. Watch the sunrise activities

Local fishermen ferry themselves across the lagoon burdened with their gear in their early morning expedition to catch fish. Follow them to the seashore and you can quietly observe as they sing to the fish, gently coaxing them closer. It looks like the steps to an intricate dance as the fisherman walks back and forth, swinging the net before releasing.

From this vantage point you can watch as the early sun rises and starts to change the shades of colour across the sea. Another worthy phenomenon to observe, as the light begins to highlight the world, is the patterns that emerge in the sand. All through the night, the crabs have been decorating the ground in fresh tracks of dots and rows. Get there before these artworks are washed away by the water slowly reaching up the sand banks. Tonight the tiny artists must do it all again.

8. Watch the sunset display

Tangalle is that secret place in Sri Lanka where you can watch the sunset as well as the sunrise over the ocean. Well, almost. The setting sun is only marginally excluded from the games played by the lapping warm waters of southern Sri Lanka.

At sunset you will get sundowners with a show. Hermit crabs display their shelled homes in a frenzy of zigzags across the white sand. Local shell pickers sift through the deposits at the water’s edge. Couples walk hand-in-hand oblivious to the world around them. The dramatic finale of the show is the depth of the burnt orange that the sun releases before it closes the curtain on the day. Few places can compete with that.

9. Have an Arack Attack

If you aren’t coupled up, the place to go have a bit of nighttime fun is The Lounge. A beautiful wooden deck with swings at the bar counter. The bartender and owner mix up your cocktails with Sri Lankan finesse, making an Arack Attack a firm favourite in my group’s taste. It seems the recipe changes from place to place, perhaps that is the attack. Arack is a spirit made from coconut but bears no distinct coconut flavor.

The evening drew to a close with a spontaneous transformation of bar into dance floor (by said group), infused with African music (yes in Sri Lanka) and a spectacular beach bonfire ending.

Resources

A few useful tourist facts

• As mentioned before, there is only one bank where my South African bank card worked – Commercial Bank (the blue one).
• Cash is useful as few places other than the resorts take cards.
• If you stay for a few days, you can get handwoven sarongs made to order. Ask at your guesthouse or contact Sasagara.
• Stray dogs are a bit of a nuisance all over Sri Lanka. We noticed a dramatic increase in their numbers, poor condition and aggression along the Tangalle town beaches. In fact one of our group was attacked and had to go for a rabies shot. Best just keep your distance and be weary. But don’t let this put you off going.
• The next point is that the hospital at Tangalle is clean and has helpful staff. They have a dedicated rabies unit and it doesn’t cost much for a consult and the shot. The nurses have old school uniforms and radiant personalities, so you will feel like you are in safe hands.
• Price of food here seemed much higher than the central parts of Sri Lanka. Large fish, rice and curry was SLR 1300-1400.

Where to stay

I can highly recommend the two places that we stayed bearing in mind that you will get very different experiences at each and the cost is also vastly different.

Home from home guesthouse closer to town is Sasagara. Click here for latest prices and booking.

Idyllic resort time on the outskirts of Tangalle was at Ganesh Gardens. Click here for latest prices and to book.

Disclosure: Some of the links in this blog are affiliate links and I will earn a percentage of the sale, at no extra cost to you. Your support through these links helps to pay for this blog, so thanks!