A quiet fishing village – An Bang, Tan Tanh

20 minutes outside Hoi An you hit the beach. In fact it is the very tip of China Beach. White sand, turquoise water, islands in the background.

We are staying in another homestay in Tan Tangh village (An Bang), 50m from the beach.

We have found our little piece of paradise.

I think homestay in this case is what we would call a B&B (bed and breakfast) back home. However, we get to interact with the family on a regular basis. We are their very first guests, and they are extremely keen to make us feel welcome, what a privilege.

The miscommunication and gesticulating must be quite comical to the outside observer but at most we get the basic information across to each other. I managed to convince the family to demonstrate and teach us how to make Vietnamese coffee and we got to taste a local fruit translated by Google to ‘Left breast milk’ but I may have discovered the real name…custard apple but not 100%sure. It is a mix between a fig and mango to my tastbuds.

We get traditional Vietnamese breakfasts every morning with our coffee. In this case, beef rice noodle soup called Pho. It is strange at first but I’m getting used to dinner for breakfast.

A walk through the backstreets into the village early in the morning shows that the village is already alive. In the market the ladies are buying their fresh meat and veg and on the streets the locals are having coffee. Some are having breakfast, others have got a takeaway – Pho in a plastic bag or flask.

It seems that the Vietnamese understand the true meaning of community. Neighbours support each other and often eat together or socialise in in one of the houses on a daily basis. And they all support the next one’s business. We get many suggestions of restaurants, taxi drivers, spas and beach bars often followed by the fact that it belongs to a relative or close friend. Plus they can always organise you a good deal.

Thanks to this network we have had great meals and free loungers under umbrellas on private beaches. I have even had an exceptional foot massage and if you know me, you know I don’t say that easily. The spa receptionist then preceeded to take me home deciding that the walk was too far after so much relaxing. I had a silent giggle to myself as we whizzed down the street on her moped. Random acts of kindness,  such as a bottle of unexpected mineral water or a bonus plate of fruit after a meal were commonplace during our visit.

The swims in the sea are beautiful and warm. We are fortunate with the weather, according to our family, they had 3 months of storms last year this time which lead to many families seeking shelter in the town of Hoi An.

This has been the Vietnam I have wanted to experience, getting to know a family, a bit about their everyday coming and going and have conversations about life, even if it is through Google translate.

As a farewell, our host family has offered to prepare a feast of seafood for us tonight and we even get to help with the cooking. Such generosity. An experience like no other.