8 Reasons to visit the Eastern Free State this Autumn

The Eastern Free State, gently residing on the plateau of South Africa, is fast becoming one of the favourite getaways for urban dwellers from Johannesburg. What is the appeal? I know what I love about the Eastern Free State but I wondered whether the reality was mixed up in a cocktail of my  childhood memories (Yes, I’m a Free State original). So I decided on a roadtrip that took me from Durban to Bethlehem, the town of my childhood to re-discover the soul and beauty of the Eastern Free State.

1.Take in some fresh air

As my car crested the Oliviershoek Pass and the Drakensberg range was only visible in my rearview mirror, I sensed a genuine change in the atmosphere. A board on the side of the road welcomes you to the Free State but the hairs on my arms registered the welcome before my eyes did. The air has a palpable crispness on this side of the escarpment. And it is drier, like an easily palatable wine. Breathe in, breathe out, your lungs will thank you.

2.Observe sweeping skies and landscapes

This is where the world opens up before you like your favourite book. The clear blue of endless skies are reflected in the turquoise waters of the Sterkfontein Dam. A quick pitstop overlooking the dam reveals that the air may be crisp but the sun strikes with venom at this altitude.

I found myself longing for a cool long drink from those blue waters. I had to settle for a sip from my Bonaqua bottle. If you continue down the road, the vista changes. From mountains that are slowly swept out into grasslands and carpets of golden grass rolled into bales of hay.

3.Pick roadside bouquets

One of the many reasons that Autumn is my favourite time of year, is because of the fields of cosmos flowers that pop up all over the Free State. Uninvited (not indigenous) but welcome yet the same. Pink and white and shades of maroon hug the verges of most provincial roads decorating the pathways from here to there. You can go hunting for the best photographic opportunity of this display, or you can simply enjoy the sights and commit them to memory.

I went with option number three. Pull over onto the side of the road, get entangled in the bushes to pick fistfuls of flowers. Up close and personal, experience the natural wonder. Then realise it was more romantic in our head than in reality, when you have to pick dozens of blackjacks off your clothes. Another beauty is the sunflower that turns its face to worship the sun. The yellow forms a patchwork of colour in contrast to the light green grass. I learnt my lesson and stayed in the car this time.

4.Meat for the meat lover

Whether you head to the local butcher to buy a nice thick slice of rump for the braai (barbecue) or opt to go to a restaurant, you will do your taste buds a huge favour. This is where grass-fed goodness comes from and people will drive good distances for their fix of flavour. This is carnivore country, Vegetarians are welcome but I’m not sure if a Free Stater will know how to cater for you. If you say you don’t eat meat, it is likely you will be offered chicken.

5.A pint at the Clarens Brewery

And what would a good steak be without a beer to wash it down. The little town of Clarens is host to many a craft but none are as refreshing as the hops that have been transformed into a golden liquid. Whether it is draught on tap or bottles to go, you are experiencing the product of careful attention and expert craftsmanship. Add into that the fact that it has zero preservatives and you may even feel that it is almost healthy to drink. The Clarens Brewery is a great place to end a day in the friendly Eastern Free State. Watch the sun set over the town square and listen to the local chatter.

6.Horseback adventures

Preferably do not follow these suggestions in exact order. Have a good night’s rest after your pints because drinking and riding could be detrimental to your health.

In the Golden Gate Highlands National park, your cowboy dreams can come true. The Gladstone Stables are 5 minutes drive from Glen Reenen Rest camp. The grooms get you kitted out in helmets and saddle up the ponies for you. My niece decided that a one hour ride was not hard core enough so we signed up for 2.

10 minutes into the ride my bottom was questioning my wisdom in letting an 11 year old decide on our time in the saddle. Fortunately the scenery distracts you from the discomfort of a trail saddle. We rode past rocky outcroppings, through pebbled streams and were tickled by fields of tall fluffy grass. Up hills and overlooking valleys. Simple beauty. And some wind on the face when we tried a bit of a canter. Exhilarating.

7.Hiking the Golden Gate Highlands National Park

All the hikes start from the cool shade of the willows at the Glen Reenen rest camp. Cross the bubbling stream and leave behind the sound of crickets in the green grass. Over this threshold the fauna changes to forests of ouhout with their evergreen leaves followed by rockfaces of brick red sandstone.

That’s actually not the full truth, the rockfaces have layers of colour but the predominant one in my mind is red. Where water trickles down from above, this earth forms pools of red clay creating the illusion of a bleeding mountain.

The park has many routes, the majority taking 45 minutes to 1 hour to complete. The hikes may be short but it offers such variety. From chain ladders up the Brandwag Buttress to the welcome shade of Echo ravine, there is something for everyone. We chose to go to Mushroom Rock and up a part of the 4 hour Woodhouse Peak trail.

Doing things in reverse inevitably leads to some hairy moments of losing the route, following your own path up sheer slopes, finding the path again and big smiles when you finally see what that plaque meant by ‘Horse and Rider’. A bit of a metaphor on life…climbing the uncharted path may have more risk but it brings greater adventure and possibly clearer views. Deep. Or high. Your choice.

8.Chat to a local

I doubt that any list of things to do or see will ever not have this suggestion. To me the people make a place. So go ahead and chat to a Free Stater and you will experience true friendliness. Warmth is almost a personality standard. Perhaps it is because the pace of life is slower. Their is time to enjoy each moment. And time will slow down for you when you visit. The calm demeanor of the people permeates into everything. Guaranteed you will leave feeling rested and restored.