Warning: Getting around Sri Lanka can raise your heartrate

Getting around Sri Lanka is an adventure on its own. Prepare to be exhilarated and fear for your life simultaneously. No matter what mode of transport you pick, the roads and the landscape guarantee a few heart stopping moments on your trip. Mix in a pinch of patience because like all good things in life, it takes time.

Trains

Some of the world’s most scenic train rides can be found in Sri Lanka. Whether your preference is rolling greenery in a patchwork of mist or miles of ocean, hugging yellow sand beaches, Sri Lanka has a route designed for you. Probably the safest and most comfortable form of transport in Sri Lanka, it still has a little bit of adventure up its sleeve.

1^st class is a sanitary experience with wifi and airconditioning. 2^nd class, now that’s where the fun starts. My journey, from Weligama to Colombo, began with a choice of seat next to a window. The breeze rushing in as the scenery rushed past. With more and more passengers piling in at every stop, I was eventually reduced to a puddle of sweat. The breeze now like opening a fridge and expecting it to cool down the entire kitchen.

And don’t think for one minute that anyone has an inkling what personal space is in a train. You get so close and personal, your puddles begin to merge. To have a stranger’s bottom as your entertainment for the ride, is not unheard of. In 2^nd and 3^rd class, be prepared to play Tetris with your limbs, your luggage and those of people you have never been acquainted with but now know their armpit intimately.

In the hill country, slopes drop off to the valley below at dangerously steep angles. It feels like the train could roll down the hill at any minute. And then it goes dark. The trains enter and exit tunnels and if that’s not enough, next comes mist. Imagine the panic inside my soul as we came across repairs on the railroad, had to stop for the workmen to move and then continue…on lines that were being repaired. Like I said, an adventure.

Buses

I had hardly managed to get my whole body, let alone my luggage past the bus door before it lurched forward and began to plummet its contents down a long winding road. Sitting perched on a metal pole, only a metre away from the wide open door, I began to contemplate my life as surely it was about to end.

A few stops later, a seat opened up on the passage and some very polite Sri Lankans offered it up to me. Luxury compared to the pole and at least I was now facing forward. With the change in view, however, I did feel the need to offer up a few more prayers for my safety as well as the other passengers. From this vantage point I had first class tickets to the show of bus trying to overtake bus on a very narrow and winding road.

With every shift in gear, the mechanics groaned and belched out an invisible cloud of fumes. Combined with swinging from side to side as the bus curved its way down from the Hill country, the fumes resulted in a very pale and nauseous South African.

I sat with wonder and watched my fellow passengers. The two next to me were fast asleep. They had the uncanny ability to remain upright and unaware of the world. My white knuckled grip and steady frame, the cork preventing their relaxed bodies from spilling into the passage.

All this excitement cost R8 ($0.4) for a 2 hour trip. A much cheaper thrill ride than any roller coaster. Thrown in at no extra cost was the delightful sound of Sri Lankan karaoke and endless beautiful scenery. I am pleased to be alive to tell the tale. It seems bus rides and myself are a lethal combination, read about some my rides through South America and the other in the US.

TukTuks

Definitely my favourite form of transport in Sri Lanka. Is it safe? Absolutely not. Is it fun? What isn’t fun about travelling on 3 wheels? Every blog said to only take metered tuktuks. Now if I someday come across one with a meter, let alone one that works I’ll be sure to write about it. So I did a lot of bargaining, a lot.

Some of the tuktuks could rival a ‘pimp my ride’ episode with spoilers and miniature 4×4 accessories. The driver is almost guaranteed to take it upon himself to become your personal guide. You often walk away feeling like you’ve made a lifelong friend (don’t be fooled, all passengers get the full customer service experience).

It feels like you are getting up close and personal with your surroundings and scenery as you pass. The sounds and smells of Sri Lanka, combined with the views, makes for a well-rounded experience. Best part, the wind whips through your hair and provides natural air-conditioning.

The tuktuk driver doesn’t necessarily always know the exact route to your destinations, but they certainly don’t have a problem stopping and asking. Never fear, this lack of ego ensures safe and timeous arrival.

Do not be surprised if you book with a specific driver and you end up with his brother’s wife’s uncle. Also, the phrase ‘can speak English very well’ should be taken with a pinch of salt. Driving into oncoming traffic or abreast with 1 or 2 other tuktuks on a single carriage road is considered normal. Road rules are optional.

And yet I felt safe on every tuktuk trip whether a short distance or between towns.

Hired car with driver

This is a fantastic option when travelling in a group of two or more. It could be a large sedan car or a minibus. Air-conditioning seems standard, shocks not so standard. We used a minibus to Sigiriya and a car to Adams Peak, both from our guesthouse in Kandy.

It is like having your own personal tour where you can decide to stop and take photos or pick up some food at your convenience. You certainly feel safer in a car on the winding roads of the hill country than in a bus. And it is faster, so an excellent option if you are short on time.

The safe options do feel a bit sanitary in a country filled with colour and warm friendly people. I’d definitely recommend at least trying one of the other 3 to get a feel of what Sri Lankans experience in their day to day life and to meet some locals.

Resources

Click here for a useful link for determining the cost of hiring a car with a driver in Sri Lanka.

Do you need the train timetable, click on this link.

For extensive information on train travel for beginners in Sri Lanka visit the website Seat61.

Catching a bus is a bit of a gamble, both with your life and which bus is the right one. Best bet is to ask a local or the bus driver before embarking. Fortunately tickets are bought on the bus, so you just hop on and go if it’s the right one.

Ordering a TukTuk – stand on the side of the road, look lost or like a tourist and guaranteed one will stop. If not, raise your hand and they will stop.