Must see Negombo, Dutch Canals and Fishing in the Lagoon

You simply must see Negombo, the closest town to the International airport in Sri Lanka and therefore our introduction to this beautiful island.

The overriding theme of the town and why I say you must see Negombo is for the  waterways and with water comes fishing.

The waterway is an intricately woven network of life giving blood consisting of the ocean, Negombo Lagoon and a remnant of the Dutch colonial era, a 14.5 kilometer canal from Colombo to Negombo.

Fishing

A simple drive down to the Lagoon will take you past the fish market, where people can be seen haggling to buy buckets of oysters and every imaginable fish. It is a concoction of noise and that assaulting smell of the sea, mixed in with people pushing past each other 10 feet deep in bodies looking for the best deal.

Men in colourful sarongs (yes, I’ve seen more men than women wearing skirts) and the ever present red, blue and green tuktuks lend the scene some vibrant colours.

Off the bridges and on the banks, boys and men stand patiently waiting as their rods dangle in the blue waters below, hoping for the elusive catch.

Negombo Lagoon
We hired a boat to see what the lagoon had to offer and gently glided by all the fishing boats back from their early morning expedition. Men wading waist deep in the lagoon, fix their boats while laughing and joking. The sun is getting higher and the humidity is beggining to become evident but the water seems to keep their spirits high.

Boats of every size and colour line the path to our destination. Some look new, some look weather beaten and occasionally we pass a remnant of a boat devastated by the tsunami of Christmas 2006.
Out in the middle of the lagoon the world is silent beside the sound of the engine purring along, the splash of boat against water and the morning choir of birds. We stop at a sand bank and have a picnic midwater, buttocks on plastics seats, feet dangling in cool water and taste buds quenched by king coconut milk straight from the real thing.

From the aeroplane, I had seen these round shapes in the lagoon. With the opportunity to see it close up you realise that they are man-made islands of reeds used to attract fish. The fisherman stands in the water and casts his net around the construction, almost guaranteed success.

Birds and monkeys can also be viewed, however, they feed the monkeys in order for you to see them which doesn’t sit well with me.
Dutch Canals

The mode of transport in the era of the Dutch settlers, today it gives Negombo the feel of being in Amsterdam with paths and old houses forming the borders of the canal.

Boats tied up and ready to be hired lend texture to the picture.

No longer used as the main form of transport, some parts have become overgrown and inaccessible but that view that I saw was magical.

Beaches

Although I did not get to see it, it also forms part of the life blood. If you stay close enough, the sound will lull you to sleep at night and also forms a great background to your first taste of Lion Lager.

Check out this blog by Nerd Nomads for more on Negombo beach.

To get a boat trip organised, chat to the people at Siegler Cottage or email our host/guide Mohan on mohanroyrajapakse@gmail.com