Beauty from adversity. There are few things as inspiring as seeing how nature uses her powers to transform the scars of her circumstances into something majestic. One of the natural phenomena that thousands of tourists stream to see each Spring, the Namaqualand daisy fields, is as a result of this balancing act by nature.
It is only on disturbed land, land previously or currently cleared for agriculture, that the seas of endless colour appear. A symbiotic relationship of sorts. One continually pursued by nature although fickle humanity shuns her wares in hard times. For even in the midst of one of the worst droughts that the Northern Cape has experienced in decades, nature finds a way to extend grace to our sight.
They push through the dry soil, awakened by the heaven sent waters that are the lifeblood of the Northern Cape. Facing north, they seek the passage of the sun, displaying their splash of colour as a sign of gratitude. But it has been a hard 5 years. And without rain, the fields have become sparse. The very source of energy they openly worship, robs the ground of the precious few dew drops that currently sustain this sea.
To my eyes and to my soul, the experience of finally visiting the Namaqualand in Spring, this current display is more than enough. It is a lesson. Each new flower, a joy. Walking a path directed by orange daisies and pleasantly interrupted by the occasional splash of a new colour. The sun has parched my lips and I long for some respite in the shade and a cool drink of water. My need gives me insight into the challenge to sustain life in the heat of the Namaqualand. It is a lesson of persistence, of overcoming circumstances no matter the discomfort. Thankful for the little that sustains life. Thankful for the respite of early morning dew before the withering midday.
No matter where I look, my eyes can feast on an abundance of new experiences. Even the time of day is of no consequence. At night the stars shine with effervescent enthusiasm, revealing streaks of shimmering white paths across the tranquil Namaqua sky. Below, the succulents of the Knersvlakte reflect the bounty of the night sky. More than 2000 species, scattered amongst white stones, can be identified and are unique to the area.
The aptly named baby’s bottoms brought me tremendous joy. The cheeky little bottoms give a brown eye to every observer who is willing to look down. This is rare beauty, many species almost extinct as they innocently lie unprotected from poachers. By the cover of night they come, desecrating the land whilst removing plants for the sake of owning what doesn’t belong to anyone. This is where they belong, this is where they thrive.
A legion of quiver tree sentries have watched the sand road passes with careful patience for more than a century. They loom up against the stark blue sky, sharing their space with boulders of sandstone. The taller their view, the more stories they could tell of people coming and going and creatures bustling about. But they don’t only watch, at times the trees participate in the human story. A hollowed out tree trunk can serve as a makeshift fridge. Nature and wind and moisture, the only ingredients needed to store freshness. These are the companions that raise their hands and encourage us on our pilgrimage through the northern lands of South Africa.
The people of the Namaqualand are tethered to the land, almost like an enchantment. Reliant on whatever it produces, the soul is connected to and forms a part of it all. Water carves a path in the land that can be seen in the dry season. In a similar fashion the hardships and joys of living here carve character deep with stories that enthrals the listener to the very hours that the cock crows. The Namaqualand local has no choice but to be a symbol of strength and unity. They understand connection, the need to approach the day with hands clasped rather than raised in anger.
The last leg is a walk along the Oliphant’s river. Our feet head south, while the water flows north. Only one other river in Africa follows this trajectory. The path is strewn with wildflowers of every colour and shape. This is the only way to see the flowers, heading from north to south, on foot so that you can see them face to face. Slow down, walk, smell the air, breathe, enjoy.
Recommendations
I recommend Pedroskloof Guest Farm outside Kamieskroon in the Kamies Mountains.
Spend a decent amount of time in the Namaqua Nature Reserve. Get out of your car and go for a walk along the paths.
Travel the Namqualand from North to South…or you just might miss the flowers that are right in front of you.
Carms you have a way with words that do more than justice in reflecting your experiences. I really enjoy the angle you view creation and the humour you inject. Thanks so much for sharing.
A wonderful and inspirational read as always.. Thank you