South Africa, a country with one of the most diverse coastal belts, stretching across two oceans and opposing weather systems. In my humble opinion, the most beautiful section is nestled in the south eastern corner of the country. It is rugged and untamed and so aptly named…the Wild Coast.
Slow down, unplug.
If you want a break from the concrete urban life, this is what your soul has been craving for. It is by no means an easy destination. But this is what makes it a treasure worth working for. You won’t find throngs of cellphone toting millennials heading south in a desperate diaspora to ‘experience’ nature. Lack of signal and infrastructure will deter the technologically advanced. This is a destination for an old soul, someone that appreciates that good things take time and that life and happiness don’t come on demand.
This is that place, where less is more and time stops to exist. You rise with the sun and the glow of fire accompanies you to bed. Your best friends are a book, a deck of cards and a pair of walking shoes. And when all else fails, there is time, time for conversation and deep philosophical thoughts.
Road to nowhere but somewhere.
Make sure that in your mix is a 4×4 owner. Where you are headed, the roads are hardly mapped. Driving through a river or rock shelf is not unheard of. This is ‘Camel man’ country and every dusty road has the makings of an adventure. Even the signposts are either missing or misleading. Keep your wits about you. Occasionally a local will be willing to direct you. A beautiful experience of hand signals, lost in translation directions and a the chance that you will likely not find your destination but you will still find something to behold.
Therapy.
Across the bay, the fishermen are preparing their rods to entice that big catch. The methodical ritual of reeling in , looping the line and checking the hook is like cheap therapy to the avid fisherman. Or perhaps the large cooler box filled with icy beverages is the real attraction to the solitary outpost. If you are fortunate, a fish finds its way into your pan after one of these rituals. With a dollop of butter and salt, it still tastes of the ocean as it melts into your mouth.
The wild treasure to discover.
The bays are wild. The ocean looks treacherous. The wind sweeps easily over the treeless grasslands that drop off into the ocean. The flattened heights are broken up with big rifts into the earth like scars on a stubbled face. Where the water flows, waterfalls form on rocky floors and create a green forest of trees to hike through.
One of these gorges is the home to a vulture colony. And like many things onthe Wild Coast, it is unassuming and poorly marked, yet majestic to behold. If your destination is anywhere close to Lusikisiki and past Port Grosvenor, this is a must see. A well built platform stands alone to watch over the soaring birds. It is a strange sight to see this platform simply looming in the middle of nothing. Feathered multitudes ride the crest of the rising air, swooping along the ledges or forming circles in the blue above. We made it a midday sundowner stop. Good choice.
Simple joy.
A gentle hike along the coast reveals another characteristic of the Wild Coast. Salty sea pools teaming with life and shells all along the yellow sand. Here you can explore to your hearts delight, bringing home treasures of a variety of shells and smooth rocks.The salt from the ocean accompanies your sense of smell along the entire coast. It is a strangely comforting aroma. Staring at the sea will reward your eyes with a glimpse of a whale or a school of dolphins riding the waves.
Where the streams run into the sea, I sat and stared at the patterns formed by the sun playing with bubbles on the water surface. The shadows created a bed of star shapes dancing in the flow of the water on its course to the sea. There is beauty and wonder wherever you look, even in the small things. A hike would not be complete without encountering at least one Nguni cow shuffling along the coast or the warm smile of one of the local Xhosa herders.
Can this trip be replicated? I doubt it. But the wonder that accompanies your soul when you step into this magical realm of South Africa guarantees that no matter what part of the Wild Coast you are fortunate enough to visit, the encounter will leave you changed and refreshed.
Tell me about your hidden treasures of the Wild Coast in the comments section, I’d love to hear about more stories like mine.
Beautiful, refreshing